SUNDAY 7 AUGUST 2011
I cycled the 7 kilometres to the main Temple of Angkor Wat, which was made a UNESCO site in 1992. On the way I passed several areas which were marked as cleared minefields which brings home the extent of mine laying and bombing done by the Americans during the Vietnam war, and then the Cambodian armies during their civil war.
Angkor Wat was built in the 12th century and was the capital city and state temple. Although originally built as Hindu temples, they were later converted to Buddhist temples, back to Hindu and finally back to Buddhist again. The large moat surrounding the Temple was built by hand. It is the world’s largest religious building and was the largest pre-industrial city in the world - the whole area covers 400 kilometres.
I hired a guide who told me about the various images and reliefs. He also pointed out the bullet and canon holes in the walls from when the Khmer Rouge were holed up in the temple during the civil war, before they came to power in 1975.
I then cycled to Angkor Thom, which was the last capital city of the Khmer empire. It was established in the late 12th century and abandoned sometime in the 16th century. The complex covers 9 square miles and at one time between 80,000 and 150,000 people lived here. The main temple, the Bayon, is in the middle of the temple complex.
After lunch of local Khmer food, I cycled to Ta Prohm, but missed the turning (there was no sign at all) and went 2 kilometres the wrong way. By the time I had cycled back to Angkor Thom, it started pouring with rain, so I put my bike in a Tuk Tuk and got a lift to Tan Prohm. My bike was sticking out both sides, and the driver drove fast and actually hit another van with my bike!
Ta Prohm was amazing. Although the temple has been restored to some extent and made safe, it’s been left to show how it has been taken over by the jungle, with giant tree roots enveloping the walls, which gives it a special atmosphere. This temple was also built in the 12th century and housed about 12,500 people, including 18 high priests and 615 dancers. The rain didn’t stop, so I got another Tuk Tuk to take me back to my hotel.
I hired a guide who told me about the various images and reliefs. He also pointed out the bullet and canon holes in the walls from when the Khmer Rouge were holed up in the temple during the civil war, before they came to power in 1975.
I then cycled to Angkor Thom, which was the last capital city of the Khmer empire. It was established in the late 12th century and abandoned sometime in the 16th century. The complex covers 9 square miles and at one time between 80,000 and 150,000 people lived here. The main temple, the Bayon, is in the middle of the temple complex.
After lunch of local Khmer food, I cycled to Ta Prohm, but missed the turning (there was no sign at all) and went 2 kilometres the wrong way. By the time I had cycled back to Angkor Thom, it started pouring with rain, so I put my bike in a Tuk Tuk and got a lift to Tan Prohm. My bike was sticking out both sides, and the driver drove fast and actually hit another van with my bike!
Ta Prohm was amazing. Although the temple has been restored to some extent and made safe, it’s been left to show how it has been taken over by the jungle, with giant tree roots enveloping the walls, which gives it a special atmosphere. This temple was also built in the 12th century and housed about 12,500 people, including 18 high priests and 615 dancers. The rain didn’t stop, so I got another Tuk Tuk to take me back to my hotel.
In the evening I went to the area known as ‘Pub Street’ where most of the restaurants and night life is. I had a Khmer BBQ of 5 kinds of meat – beef, pork, chicken, prawns and crocodile! It was served with rice and in the bottom of the small BBQ vegetables and noodles cooked in hot water at the same time.
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